Whenever I groom a man either a celebrity or someone in the general public I have a checklist of things I go through when cutting and styling for men.
My checkpoints are very specific. I like to clean up the perimeter of the hairline around the ears the neck line. I like to do a nice taper from ear to temple. I always want to make sure I am not cutting it too short because on camera that can be a little aggressive so I’d like to leave a little bit of length on the side.
If I’m doing a personal haircut if they want to go shorter on the sides that is no problem. I like to blend the temple to the top so there are no heavy weight lines. I think it’s really important to make sure you take a trimmer I like a peanut trimmer or any little trimmer to clean up the halo of the ear.
What I mean by the halo of the ear is the outer most surface of the ear. A lot of times guys have hair even peach fuzz that’s growing but anytime you have a back light on set it’s gonna look like tiny little pins sticking out of the ear. I like to clean the ear halo and the inside of the ear.
If it’s not a character actor I like to clean up the eyebrows, if it’s a union show I clear that through make up first. I like to protect my clients and if they have nose hair I like to push the button of the nose up because that will push out any excessive hair that can easily be cut.
When styling the hair I like to make sure the hair looks appropriate and balanced from every angle. When someone is on TV you’re seldon gonna look straight into the camera unless you’re addressing the audience (like a news anchor) most of the time the audience is going to see a three-quarter view or a back view of the head. I have to make sure everything is put together and balanced.
For products I like to use a putty or a paste that doesn’t have a lot of shine because on camera that shine can come across as greasy looking. keep in mind when you do someone’s hair on camera the lights are extremely bright. I like to take a little hair fiber (topikk) and put it on the scalp to take down the shine. The shine on the scalp reflects light which makes the hair look thinner.
The final thing I like to do is take and apply a little clubman powder to get rid of any little hairs that may have fallen on the neck or behind the ears.
Dean Banowetz the Hollywoodhairguy